Wednesday, January 21, 2009
Standing in line here is different
In order to complete my resident VISA, I journeyed out to the Preventive Medicine Department. This is where all visitors/residents must go to be cleared for HIV, Hepatitis, and other diseases (One positive test and they put you on the next slow boat to China).
From the moment I got out of the car I could feel eyes on me. There were about two hundred men gathered around the entrance of the building. I walked up to the crowd nervously and tried not to look them in the eye. When you meet someone's gaze, they don't smile but just keep staring at you. I'm used to the smiley reciprocation back in the States, so I'm still adjusting to this. The people here aren't being rude, it's just different. Also, they are staring because I really stand out. I am a woman, in Western attire, with light skin, blue eyes, and blond hair - all reasons that I look different and far from the norm.
As I continued toward the front door, I noticed something else significant. Not only were the men standing there, they were also working to stay in line with physical subtleties. One would push his way into the line and the others would respond defensively, solidifying their footing and puffing up their shoulders to maintain their position and ensure their place in line. They must have been standing there for hours and it looked like they would continue for several more. But as I approached, the mass of people easily parted, making way for me. Each man in my direct path would stare while he stepped back or to the side, and when someone didn't notice me and move right away, the others would say something and pull their shirt or give them a little push. Without saying a word, this crowd parted for me, allowing me to pass them and get to the door.
I'm learning that there is a class system here. The UAE nationals (Emiratis) are given land and money from the government. They are supported financially without having to work. Those who choose to work are paid more than any other nationality for their work. Then there's the Western expats that make up the majority of the professionals/academics. They are paid well, but less then an Emirati with the same qualifications. It seems that the rest are the working class. This is made up of immigrants from nearby countries such as India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Lebanon, Jordan, Egypt, and the Philippines to name a few. These people come here to work as laborers - cleaning, construction, mechanics, food service, laundry, hotel staff, sales, and everything else that might be minimum wage in the states. They get paid so little but they do it because it's more money than they could make in their home countries.
The UAE itself has a cushy arrangement, paying the bare minimum to have foreign workers maintain their country. I'm not saying that UAE nationals are the bad guys - they are providing employment for people who wouldn't have it otherwise. What is not disputed is that more emphasis is put on cutting costs than paying a fair wage to foreign laborers. It's interesting to live in a place where many people look to the color of your skin or nationality to assume your role in society and their role as it relates to you.
The rest of the visa process and the days happenings pale in comparison to this lengthy soap-box moment, so I will summarize the rest:
I was escorted to a separate "Women's Waiting Room" where I waited with at least 300 other women for a chance to meet with a tech and phlebotomist. It's not uncommon here to separate men and women in public situations. Again, I felt a little out of place, as I was the only Caucasian, Western-dressed woman in the entire waiting room of veiled faces. The good news - after four hours of patiently waiting, I finished all the testing and received a "Fit for Residence" classification. Hurray!!!
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5 comments:
How fascinating! Sounds like such an interesting culture!
What an odd experience. I thought going on a mission was different, but this blows culture shock out of the water.
J
I love hearing your stories! I love that you are posting about the everyday things, like breakfast and stuff, because those things are so fascinating to me! To see what you're everyday life is like... Keep them coming! :)
Well... I can't tell you how much we miss you guys. It's kind of surreal that you're actually half-way around the world... it just seems like you've been hiding out in SLC for a while! We really do miss you both so much! Give Rich a big hug for us and call him "Dummy" for me!
Loves!
Julie
FOUR HOURS!! What a pain!
I'm so glad you're writing about the culture there- I love learning about it and I'm sure you'll love having a record of it!
what an adventure! reece and I will have to come and visit you guys and you can show us around all your favorite spots.....wel, Ill put it on my wish list anyway.
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